Garage Doors Near the Water: Salt Air and Wind on Long Island

How salt air affects a garage door

Salt carried in the air settles on every metal part of the door and the opener. Combined with moisture, it speeds up rust on springs, cables, hinges, rollers, track bolts and the bottom brackets. The parts nearest the floor and the opening suffer most, because that is where wet salt collects.

• Springs. Rust adds friction between the coils and can shorten spring life. Galvanized or coated springs resist it better.
• Lift cables. Corrosion often starts at the bottom bracket, hidden from view, until a cable snaps.
• Hardware. Hinges and roller stems seize, making the door louder and harder to move.
• Opener. Rail, trolley and circuit boards in a damp, salty garage do not last as long.

Maintenance that helps

• Rinse the outside of the door with fresh water a few times a year, especially after storms
• Lubricate hinges, rollers and springs every few months with a garage door spray
• Have lift cables and bottom brackets inspected yearly, and replace cables as a pair
• Ask for galvanized or stainless hardware and sealed nylon rollers when parts are replaced
• Keep the bottom seal in good shape so wind-driven rain stays out

Openers near the water

Salt air corrodes opener rails, chains, sprockets and the circuit board inside the motor head, especially in garages that are damp or that flooded once. A belt-drive opener has fewer exposed steel parts than a chain drive, and a wall-mount opener keeps the motor off the ceiling and away from the moving trolley. Whatever the type, keep the motor head dry, and unplug the opener if water ever reaches it.

Battery backup is useful near the coast too, since storms that bring salt spray also knock out power. Batteries do not like heat or damp, so expect to replace them every few years.

Hardware upgrades that resist rust

• Galvanized or coated springs. Oil-tempered springs rust quickly near salt water. Coated and galvanized springs cost more but hold up better.
• Stainless or galvanized cables. Ask whether coastal-grade cables are available for your door.
• Nylon rollers with sealed bearings. No exposed steel bearings to corrode, and quieter as well.
• Composite or PVC stop molding. It does not rot or swell the way wood does.
• Opener rail and trolley care. A dab of the maker's recommended lubricant twice a year keeps salt from seizing the moving parts.

Wind ratings and building codes

A double garage door is the largest opening in most houses. If wind pushes it in, air rushes into the house and pushes up on the roof from inside, which is how a lot of storm damage starts. New York's residential code requires garage doors to resist the design wind pressure for the location, and the design wind speeds on Long Island are among the highest in the state, especially near the South Shore and on the East End.

For new doors, manufacturers publish wind-load ratings, often tested under a standard known as ANSI/DASMA 108. Whether you need a specific rating, a permit or documentation depends on your town or village building department. The installer you are connected with should know what your municipality asks for.

Flooding and garage doors

Hurricane Sandy in October 2012 pushed storm surge into garages across the South Shore, from Long Beach and Island Park to Freeport, Lindenhurst and beyond. Saltwater flooding damages openers, wiring, springs and the bottom sections of doors, and the corrosion often shows up weeks later.

If your garage floods, unplug the opener before using it, have the springs, cables and bottom brackets checked for corrosion, and expect the opener's circuit board and motor to need testing. If you are in a flood zone, ask your installer about flood vents, which are a separate requirement from wind ratings and are set by flood rules.

Choosing a door for a coastal home

• Steel doors with a good factory finish and galvanized steel are the most common choice; look at the manufacturer's coastal warranty terms
• Aluminum and composite doors resist rust well but vary in wind rating
• Wood looks beautiful but needs frequent refinishing in salt air
• Ask for a wind-load rated door and the matching installation instructions, which often call for specific track brackets and fasteners

See new garage door installation for what a proper install includes.

After a storm: what to check

1. Look before you open

   From inside, check whether the door is bowed, pushed in, crooked or off track. If it is, do not run it.

2. Check for water in the garage

   If water reached the opener, outlet or wiring, leave the power off and have it checked before using the door.

3. Rinse off salt

   Storm spray coats the door and hardware with salt. A freshwater rinse once things have calmed down helps prevent rust.

4. Inspect the seals and bottom section

   Torn seals and dented bottom sections let in water during the next storm.

5. Photograph damage

   Before anything is moved or repaired, for insurance.

Garages in flood zones

Many South Shore and East End homes sit in FEMA flood zones. In those zones, enclosed areas below the flood elevation, which often include attached garages, are generally required to have flood openings that let water flow in and out so the walls are not pushed in. A standard garage door does not count as a flood opening on its own. If you are replacing a garage door or rebuilding a garage in a flood zone, check with your town or village building department about the rules that apply to your property.